Retinol is a very popular ingredient in the realm of skincare, known for its ability to combat various types of skin concerns. But what is retinol, and what does it treat? How does retinol work? Understanding the underlying mechanisms of action of retinol and its benefits and drawbacks can help you make an informed decision about incorporating retinol-based products into your skincare routine. Let’s explore all things retinol in this curated beginner’s guide.
What is Retinol?
Retinol belongs to the family of retinoids, which are forms of vitamin A. While high-concentration retinoids (such as tretinoin) require a prescription, retinol is the lowest-concentration retinoid used in skincare that is available over-the-counter, making it easily accessible.
Retinol comes with a slew of benefits, including anti-ageing, acne-clearing, and overall skin-repairing effects. It also has potential side effects that may make it unsuitable for some and need to be considered before adding retinol-based products to your skincare routine.
How Does Retinol Work?
Retinol penetrates the outer layers of your skin, called the epidermis, to reach the middle layer of your skin, called the dermis. Retinol is transformed into retinoic acid once it is absorbed into the dermis.
Retinoic acid binds to specific receptors in your skin cells to activate your body's processes that promote skin cell turnover and regeneration. The process of dead, damaged skin cells being replaced with new ones is known as skin cell turnover. Retinol also promotes the synthesis of vital proteins like collagen and elastin.
Collagen and elastin are proteins in the skin that are responsible for the firmness, elasticity, and youthfulness of your skin. As you age, your collagen and elastin production decreases, and skin cell turnover slows down. By boosting collagen and elastin production and speeding up skin cell turnover, retinol successfully repairs damaged skin and restores it to its former firm and plump appearance.
The faster rate of skin cell regeneration causes faster shedding of dead skin cells, which allows retinol to have an indirect exfoliating effect. This improves the texture and tone of your skin.
Retinol can also neutralise free radicals, which are molecules in the skin formed as a result of sun exposure, external pollutants, or other factors like stress levels and an unhealthy diet. They damage your skin cells and break down the collagen and elastin in your skin. Neutralising free radicals in your skin can help put a stop to this damage, thus helping rejuvenate your skin further.
Benefits of Retinol: What Does Retinol Do?
Retinol is used to treat several skin concerns, such as:
1. Fine Lines, Wrinkles, & Sagging Skin
By inducing collagen and elastin production, retinol repairs, firms, and plumps the skin, giving you a youthful look and reducing the prominent appearance of visible signs of ageing such as fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin.
2. Acne, Acne Scarring, & Uneven Texture
Speed-up skin cell turnover has a secondary exfoliating effect that removes dead skin cells that clog pores and cause acne breakouts. Removal of dead cells also results in even-textured skin.
Retinol can also regulate sebum (oil) production, thus reducing acne. While all cases of acne scarring cannot be solved with just retinol, its skin-repairing properties can help smooth out the scar tissue and make it less noticeable.
3. Hyperpigmentation, Dark Spots, & Dark Circles
Increased skin cell turnover removes the layer of dead skin cells that were hyperpigmented to reveal the even-toned skin underneath. In some cases, it can also suppress melanin production, thus preventing the formation of dark spots.
However retinol can potentially damage the skin, and other ingredients like vitamin C, niacinamide, and AHA (alphahydroxyacids) are preferred for use in the under-eye area. Before purchasing any dark circle corrector online, it is important to check the concentration of active ingredients, including retinol or alternatives, in the product before using it on your delicate under-eye skin.
Potential Drawbacks of Retinol
Now that you’ve learned what retinol is, how it works, and the benefits of retinol, let’s explore the potential drawbacks or negative side effects of using retinol-based products.
Side effects of retinol include:
1. Dry Skin
By accelerating the skin cell turnover rate, retinol causes dead skin cells to shed faster. This weakens the natural skin barrier in the short term and causes the skin to lose moisture quicker than normal, leading to dryness.
Inflammation or Redness
Retinol is a strong ingredient that can cause irritation, which manifests as inflammation or redness of the skin.
2. Itchiness
The aforementioned effects of retinol that irritate the skin, including dryness and inflammation, can cause itching. While it can be frustrating, these effects are typically temporary and should go away in the long term.
3. Increased Sensitivity to Sun Exposure
Retinol weakens the natural skin barrier in the short term, which makes the skin more susceptible to sun damage. It can also temporarily suppress melanin production. Melanin protects the skin from harmful sun rays, and temporary suppression of its production can lead to increased sun sensitivity.
Choosing the right product with a suitable retinol concentration and incorporating it slowly into your skincare routine can help minimise these side effects. An expert, such as a dermatologist, can help you choose the best retinol-based product for you if you are worried about how your skin might react.
Retinol in Periorbital Skincare
Retinol is not one of the major ingredients you need to be looking for in your eye skincare products. Similar ingredients that can be safer to use in periorbital (around the eye) skincare products include niacinamide, vitamin C, AHA’s, peptides, etc., which deliver the desired results without aggravating your delicate under-eye skin.
When used cautiously and strategically, retinol can technically be used to address periorbital skin concerns such as fine lines, wrinkles, and dark circles. However, the skin around your eyes is especially sensitive, delicate, and thin in comparison to the rest of your face. For eye skincare, products with very low retinol concentrations are recommended, along with diligent moisturisation and sun protection, to avoid irritation and other harmful side effects.
If you have very sensitive skin or experience persistent irritation, retinol is usually a no-no. You should consult a specialist to find an alternative solution that is best suited for you. There are several other methods you can consider if you have sensitive skin and are wondering how to get rid of dark circles, fine lines, or wrinkles.
Quick Recap: What is Retinol & How Does Retinol Work?
Retinol, a member of the family of retinoids, is a form of vitamin A known for its reparative effects on the skin. It is a powerful anti-ageing skin ingredient that restores the youthful glow and firmness of the skin by increasing skin cell turnover, boosting collagen and elastin production, shedding dead skin cells, and neutralising free radicals in the skin.
Retinol can be used to treat several skin conditions, including fine lines, wrinkles, sagging skin, acne, acne scarring, hyperpigmentation, dark spots, and even dark circles. Before starting to use a retinol-based product, ensure that you are educated about its potential side effects, especially if you already have sensitive skin.
